Hair is a defining feature of our appearance. An individual’s hair type is primarily determined by their genetic makeup and the environmental conditions they are exposed to during hair growth. However, there are additional factors that can affect hair type as well.
Various physical characteristics, including texture, thickness, and curl pattern, define hair types. Due to the wide range of individual variations, it can be incredibly challenging to categorize hair types into specific groups.
In this article, we will follow the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, widely recognized as a classification system for hair types. This system splits the different hair types into four broad categories: straight (1), wavy (2), curly (3), and kinky-coily (4). Each of these types is then divided into three sub-categories.
However, it is pertinent to mention that the system has faced criticism for placing Caucasian hair at a higher value than other hair types. Some critics argue that this system perpetuates Eurocentric beauty standards and fails to adequately recognize and celebrate the diverse hair textures and types found across different racial and ethnic groups.
It’s also important to note that while we will rank different hair types in terms of their prevalence, there need to be more scientific studies to determine the rarity of each type definitively. Therefore, any ranking we provide is based on observations and general assumptions.
12. Type 1b
Texture: Straight (medium)
Description: Medium in thickness, mostly fine hair strands interspersed with a few coarse fibers
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Type 1b hair is the most common type and is low maintenance. It is a subcategory of straight hair characterized by a slight wave or body in the hair, with a soft and smooth texture.
This hair type is often called “straight with a bend” and can have some natural volume and movement due to the slight wave pattern. Type 1b hair is generally easy to style and can hold curls or waves well with styling tools.
11. Type 2b
Texture: Wavy (defined waves)
Description: More defined “S” pattern, moderately wavy, prone to frizz
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Type 2b hair is a wavy hair type that falls somewhere between straight and curly. It is characterized by its “S” shape pattern that is more defined than Type 2a hair. Type 2b hair also tends to be thicker and fuller, with more volume than Type 2a hair.
The waves in this hair type typically start to form the mid-lengths to the ends and tend to lie relatively flat at the roots. This hair type is often prone to frizz and can be difficult to manage, particularly in humid weather conditions. It’s essential to use hair products specifically designed for wavy hair and avoid over-brushing or over-styling to maintain the natural wave pattern and keep frizz at bay.
10. Type 2a
Texture: Wavy (loose waves)
Description: Low-density waves with a loose S-shape pattern
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Type 2a hair is categorized as a wavy hair type and is characterized by its subtle “S” shape that creates a natural wave pattern. This hair type has a delicate, thin texture and is generally very easy to manage and style.
Type 2a hair tends to be relatively flat from the roots for a few inches, gaining volume and body as it moves toward the ends. This hair type can be easily straightened with heat styling tools or encouraged to hold its natural wave pattern using texturizing or sea salt sprays.
9. Type 1c
Texture: Straight (coarse)
Description: Wavy straight with thick and coarse texture
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Type 1c hair is a straight hair type with some slight waves, which can add volume and body to the hair. The texture of this hair type is not as fine and shiny as other straight hairs. It tends to be thick and coarse, making it challenging to style and manage.
The hair can look oily, especially after a wash, but it also appears full, thick, and voluminous. This hair type is prone to frizz and requires much more care than the other straight hair types.
8. Type 2c
Texture: Wavy (wide waves)
Description: Wider waves, resistant to styling, tend to be frizzy
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The 2c hair type is categorized as wavy, distinguished by loose, “S”-shaped coils that start at the scalp and extend down the hair shaft. This hair type’s “S” pattern is more pronounced than other type 2 hair subcategories, although the curls are not as defined as those of type 3 or 4 hair. Generally, 2c hair has a thicker and coarser texture than other wavy hair types, which makes it more susceptible to frizz.
Styling Type 2c hair can be tricky. It is best to avoid heavy styling products and use lightweight gels, mousses, or creams to enhance the waves without weighing them down. Applying a leave-in conditioner before styling can also help to define the waves and prevent frizz.
7. Type 3a
Texture: Curly (loose curls)
Description: Definite curl pattern, thick and full, may have a combination texture
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Type 3a hair is classified as curly and is characterized by well-defined, loose curls. These curls are larger and more pronounced than Type 2 wavy hair but not as tightly coiled as Type 4 kinky hair. Type 3a curls are usually springy and shiny and look full. However, it has less volume than other curly hairs and may sometimes appear flat.
Because of its unique texture, Type 3a hair requires a specialized hair care regimen. Moisture is essential to keeping Type 3a curls healthy and defined.
6. Type 3b
Texture: Curly (tight curls)
Description: Bouncy and voluminous, perfectly shaped ringlets and spirals
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Type 3b hair is characterized by tight, well-defined, spiral curls that range in circumference from a Sharpie marker to a pencil. Unlike Type 3a hair, 3b curls typically have a more voluminous appearance and bounce, but they can also experience frizz and dryness due to their unique structure.
It’s essential to properly moisturize and define the curls to avoid unwanted frizz and maintain the curl pattern’s integrity. Styling products such as curl creams, gels, and oils can help enhance and define the curls, while regular trims can prevent split ends and breakage.
5. Type 3c
Texture: Curly (corkscrews)
Description: dense, tight coils with volume
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Type 3c hair is characterized by tightly coiled curls ranging from a pencil’s circumference to a straw. These curls are tightly packed and have a dense and full texture. Unlike Type 3b curls, 3c curls can experience more shrinkage and are prone to dryness and tangling.
Due to their unique structure, moisturizing products must help define and enhance the curls while preventing breakage. Curl creams, leave-in conditioners, and oils can help improve the curls’ natural texture and provide much-needed moisture to combat dryness.
4. Type 4a
Texture: Kinky coily (defined coil)
Description: Tight coils with defined ‘o’ shape patterns
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The 4a hair type is the first type in the type 4 category typically associated with the Black community. It is characterized by tightly coiled springy curls with a defined “S” shape. The rings are usually smaller than other curly hair types, and the strands are tightly packed together, giving the hair a dense appearance.
Due to the tight curl pattern, this hair type is prone to dryness and shrinkage, making it appear shorter. This type of hair experiences about 50-60% shrinkage after washing.
3. Type 4b
Texture: Kinky coily (z coil)
Description: Tight coils, less defined kinks with ‘z’ shaped patterns
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Type 4b is tightly coiled hair that forms a sharp angle or a “Z” shape. The curls are usually densely packed and have a more zigzag pattern than type 4A hair. It looks fluffy and can have a fine and wiry or rough and coarse texture.
People with type 4b hair often experience more dryness and fragility. As a result, it’s essential to use products that provide adequate moisture to prevent breakage and promote hair growth. Protective hairstyles such as braids, twists, and bantu knots can also help reduce manipulation and retain moisture.
2. Type 4c
Texture: Kinky coily (tight coil)
Description: Tight coils, almost no visible defined kink pattern, very tight ‘o’ shaped pattern
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Type 4c hair is the most delicate and fragile hair type in the type 4 category of the hair typing system. It is commonly referred to as “afro-textured” hair and is characterized by tightly coiled hair strands that resemble tiny “z” shapes or even “s” shapes. Unlike other hair types, 4c hair has no defined curl pattern and is highly prone to shrinkage. On average, people with type 4c hair experience 75% shrinkage compared to the length of their hair strands.
4C hair tends to be very dry and brittle due to its unique structure, which makes it difficult for natural oils to travel down the hair shaft. This hair type requires a lot of moisture and gentle handling to prevent breakage and damage.
1. Type 1a
Texture: Straight (fine)
Description: Soft, shiny, tends to be oily, hard to Damage
Image source: curlcentric.com
It may come as a surprise to many that type 1a is the rarest hair type. It is most commonly found in people of Asian descent.
The Type 1a hair is 100% straight with no visible curl or wave. This hair type is often described as “baby fine” and very soft and silky. However, because the hair is so delicate and lacks texture, it can be difficult to hold a style, and it can also appear limp and flat if not properly cared for.
Sebum, or natural oils, produced by the scalp’s glands, travel down the hair shaft easily due to the straight strands of type 1a hair. Thus, it exhibits a lustrous sheen and is highly resilient against damage.
